Tools and Materials Needed

Before you begin, having the right tools and parts on hand will make the job go smoothly. Beyond the basics, you may need a few specialty items to handle rusted fasteners or tight spaces.

  • Socket and ratchet set – A 3/8-inch drive set with metric sockets (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm are common for RSX exhaust bolts).
  • Torque wrench – A 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch torque wrench capable of reading 20–80 ft-lb.
  • Breaker bar – A 1/2-inch breaker bar (18 inches or longer) for stubborn bolts.
  • WD-40 or penetrating oil – Spray on all nuts, bolts, and hangers 15–20 minutes before removal.
  • Jack and two jack stands – A low-profile floor jack works best; never rely on the factory scissor jack while working under the car.
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves – Protect from rust, dirt, and sharp edges.
  • Megan Racing exhaust system – Verify the kit is correct for your specific RSX model year (02–06) and engine variant (Base or Type-S).
  • New exhaust gaskets – The Megan Racing kit often includes new gaskets, but it’s wise to have a set of OEM or Fel-Pro replacements on hand if the included ones are flimsy.
  • Exhaust hanger removal tool (optional) – A long flathead screwdriver or dedicated hanger pliers can make removing rubber hangers much easier.
  • Anti-seize compound – Apply to all bolts and slider joints during reassembly to prevent future corrosion.

Extra tip: If you live in a salt-belt region, replace all factory spring bolts and nuts with new stainless steel or zinc-plated hardware to avoid snapping old studs.

Preparation – Lifting the Vehicle and Safety

Proper preparation prevents accidents and frustration. Park the RSX on a level, hard surface. Engage the parking brake and chock the front wheels (even if you’re only lifting the rear).

  • Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels before lifting, then raise the rear of the car with a jack at the factory jack point (just behind the front jacking point on the pinch weld).
  • Place two jack stands under the rear frame rails – locate the reinforced pinch weld areas near the rear wheel well. Lower the car onto the stands until they bear the weight.
  • Shake the vehicle to ensure it’s stable. Never trust a jack alone during work.

Once the rear wheels are off the ground, remove them to access the exhaust hangers and rear muffler area. Store the wheels under the car as an extra safety measure.

Safety reminder: Exhaust components can be hot if you’ve just driven the car. Let the RSX cool completely – at least an hour – before working near the catalytic converter or muffler.

Removing the Old Exhaust System

Step 1: Disconnect the Rear Section

The factory RSX exhaust is typically in two or three pieces: a catalytic converter assembly, a mid-pipe (with resonator), and a rear muffler section. For a full cat-back replacement, you only need to remove everything aft of the catalytic converter.

  • Spray all bolts, nuts, and rubber hanger rings with penetrating oil. Wait 10 minutes.
  • Using a 12mm or 14mm socket (depending on your car), remove the two bolts connecting the mid-pipe to the catalytic converter. A breaker bar may be needed if the bolts are rusted. If they start to spin but the nut doesn’t come off, use a penetrating oil soak for five more minutes and apply steady pressure.
  • Unbolt the muffler from the mid-pipe if your setup has a separate mid-pipe and muffler flange. Some RSX models have a one-piece mid-pipe-to-muffler section – you’ll remove that whole assembly as one unit.
  • Pry the rubber hanger rings off the car’s metal hooks using a flathead screwdriver or hanger pliers. There are typically four hanger locations: two on the mid-pipe, one on the muffler, and one near the axle.
  • Slide the exhaust system out from under the car. If it’s stuck on the hangers, give each ring a generous spray of penetrating oil and twist the exhaust pipe to break the bond.

Step 2: Dealing with Stuck Bolts

Older RSX exhausts (2002–2004) often have seized spring bolts. If a bolt snaps, don’t panic. You can usually extract the remaining stud with a stud remover or by welding a nut to the broken end. For a mid-pipe-to-cat connection, if the stud breaks, the cat flange can be drilled out and a new nut and bolt used. However, most installations go without breakage if you use adequate penetrating oil and heat (a propane torch on the nut can help expand it – but be careful near fuel lines).

Installing the Megan Racing Exhaust

Step 1: Dry Fit the Components

Before tightening anything, loosely assemble the Megan Racing exhaust on the ground to ensure all pipes, clamps, and hanger positions line up. Megan Racing exhausts are precision TIG-welded, but slight variations in manufacturing tolerances can occur. A dry fit will reveal if any pipe needs to be rotated or adjusted.

  • Slide the provided band clamps onto the pipe sections loosely.
  • Attach the mid-pipe to the catalytic converter flange using the included gasket. Use the new bolts and nuts (or reuse the factory bolts if they are in good condition).
  • Connect the rear muffler section to the mid-pipe. The Megan Racing system often uses a slip-joint with a band clamp – leave the clamp just snug enough to allow rotation.
  • Slide the rubber hanger rings onto the Megan Racing exhaust’s metal hooks. The Megan Racing system usually has three hangers: one near the axle, one on the center of the muffler, and one near the tip. You may need to transfer the factory rubber rings to the new pipes – or use the new rings included in the kit.

Step 2: Check Clearance

Once the system is loosely hung, rotate each pipe section to maximize clearance around the rear subframe, sway bar, and fuel tank heat shield. The 2.5-inch piping of most Megan Racing RSX exhausts fits snugly – a slight turn of the mid-pipe can prevent annoying rattles. Ensure at least 1/2 inch of clearance between the exhaust and any part of the chassis, especially near the axle area where the pipe runs close to the left rear suspension arm.

Pro tip: If you’re installing a Megan Racing exhaust on a lowered RSX, check clearance with a helper bouncing the rear of the car to simulate driving. The exhaust should not hit the spare tire well or the lower control arm.

Step 3: Tighten Everything

With the alignment confirmed, work from front to back, tightening each clamp and bolt to the manufacturer’s specifications. Use a torque wrench for the catalytic converter flange bolts – typical spec is 30–35 ft-lb. For band clamps, use a 10mm or 12mm socket and tighten until the clamp is snug around the pipe but not crushing it. Over-tightening band clamps can dent the pipe and cause leaks. A dab of anti-seize on all threaded fasteners will make future removal easier.

Finally, tighten the hanger rings by hand – they should be firmly seated on the metal hooks. Give the entire exhaust a firm wiggle to ensure nothing is loose.

Securing and Torquing – Double-Check Every Joint

After tightening, revisit each connection point to guarantee proper torque. Leaks at the mid-pipe-to-cat flange or slip joints will cause a ticking sound under acceleration and may hurt performance. Mist the joints with soapy water while the engine is idling – bubbles indicate a leak.

  • Catalytic converter flange: 30–35 ft-lb (check exact spec for your RSX year; most use 12mm grade 8 bolts).
  • Band clamp at mid-pipe/muffler: Tighten to 25–30 ft-lb, or until the clamp compresses the pipe without distorting the round shape.
  • Hanger rings: No torque spec – just ensure each ring is fully engaged with the hook and doesn’t slip off when the exhaust is pushed upward slightly.

Important: After 100 miles of driving, re-torque the flange bolts and band clamps. New gaskets compress, and exhaust vibrations can loosen the hardware. Make this a habit with any aftermarket exhaust install.

Final Checks Before Lowering

Before you lower the RSX, perform these inspections from underneath:

  • Start the engine (with the car still on jack stands) and listen for any metallic rattles or rubbing sounds. If you hear contact, shut off the engine and adjust the pipe rotation.
  • Check that the exhaust tip does not contact the rear bumper cutout. The Megan Racing RSX exhaust has a polished 4.5-inch slant tip – it should sit evenly within the bumper opening. You can slightly loosen the band clamp and twist the muffler can to center the tip.
  • Verify all tools, rags, and loose parts are removed from under the vehicle.

Safety: Never run the engine in an enclosed garage. Always have good ventilation.

Lowering the Vehicle

Once everything passes inspection, lower the RSX back to the ground:

  • Use the jack to lift the rear of the car just enough to remove the jack stands.
  • Slowly lower the car completely. Do not drop the car – use the jack’s release valve smoothly.
  • Reinstall the rear wheels and torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lb (M12 x 1.5 thread) in a star pattern.

Testing and Break-In Period

Cold Start and Warm Up

Start the engine from cold. The Megan Racing exhaust is louder than stock – expect a deeper tone at idle and a moderate drone around 2,500–3,000 RPM. This is normal for a 2.5-inch system. Listen for any exhaust tick or hiss that indicates a leak. Let the car idle for five minutes, then rev the engine gently to 3,000 RPM while parked – check under the car for smoke or soot around the flanges.

Test Drive

Take a short drive (5–10 miles) on varied roads. Listen for:

  • Booming or drone at highway cruising speeds (around 70 mph in sixth gear). If excessive, consider adding a resonator or keeping the stock resonator in some setups.
  • Rattles when driving over bumps or during left/right turns. These are often caused by the exhaust touching the sway bar or the rear subframe.
  • Power delivery: The Megan Racing exhaust improves top-end flow but may sacrifice a bit of low-end torque. This is typical of larger diameter cat-back systems. You should feel stronger pull above 4,500 RPM.

After the test drive, park the car and re-check all connections for leaks and movement. Re-torque the flange bolts if necessary.

Long-Term Care

Megan Racing exhausts are made of T-304 stainless steel – they resist corrosion well, but the polished finish will dull over time. Clean the tip occasionally with a stainless steel cleaner and a microfiber cloth. Inspect the rubber hangers every oil change – they can crack after a few years. Replace them with OEM or Energy Suspension polyurethane hangers for longer life.

If you plan to track the car, consider adding a heat shield wrap near the muffler to prevent heat damage to the rear bumper. The RSX’s plastic bumper can warp if the exhaust tip is too close.

Conclusion

Installing a Megan Racing exhaust on your Acura RSX is a rewarding weekend project that gives the car a sportier sound and a modest horsepower gain. The key to a successful installation is patience with rusted fasteners, careful alignment during the dry-fit, and a thorough post-installation inspection. By following this expanded step-by-step guide, you’ll avoid common pitfalls like leaks, rattles, and clearance issues.

For more detailed torque specifications and model-specific notes, refer to the service manual for your 2002–2006 Acura RSX Megan Racing official instructions. You can also find clutch knowledge from community forums like ClubRSX installation threads and the Acura World TSB library for any chassis-specific torque values. Happy wrenching – your RSX will thank you with a growl that turns heads every time you hit VTEC.