Upgrading your vehicle’s exhaust system is one of the most impactful modifications you can make for both sound and performance. The APS Racing Exhaust System has earned a strong reputation among enthusiasts for delivering a deeper tone, noticeable power gains, and a premium fitment. Whether you’re tracking your car or simply want a more engaging daily drive, understanding the installation, sound profile, performance benefits, and total cost is essential before making a purchase. This guide breaks down every aspect of the APS Racing exhaust so you can decide if it’s the right investment for your build.

Installation Process

Installing the APS Racing Exhaust System is a moderate-level DIY task that requires basic mechanical skills and the right tools. While many owners choose professional installation, a competent home mechanic can complete the job in a few hours. Below is a detailed walkthrough of the process, along with tips to avoid common pitfalls.

Tools and Preparation

  • Socket set (metric and standard, typically 10–19 mm)
  • Wrenches (open-end and combination)
  • Jack and jack stands (or a lift)
  • PB Blaster or penetrating oil for rusted bolts
  • Safety glasses and gloves
  • Exhaust hanger removal tool (optional but helpful)
  • Torque wrench for final tightening

Before you begin, run the vehicle for a few minutes to warm up the exhaust – heat loosens stubborn fasteners. Apply penetrating oil to all bolts and hanger rubbers at least 15 minutes prior to work.

Step-by-Step Removal of the Stock System

  1. Lift the vehicle using a jack and secure it on jack stands. Ensure the car is level and stable. If possible, work on a concrete floor.
  2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal if your vehicle has oxygen sensors near the exhaust – this prevents accidental shorts.
  3. Spray all bolts connecting the exhaust manifold to the downpipe, as well as any flange bolts and hanger locations, with penetrating oil.
  4. Remove the oxygen sensors using an O2 sensor socket. Mark them or take photos to remember their original positions; mixing them up can cause check engine lights.
  5. Unbolt the stock exhaust at each flange connection. Start from the rear of the vehicle and work forward. For long sections, have a helper support the weight.
  6. Cut any welded or seized hangers using a reciprocating saw or angle grinder. Some vehicles have rubber hangers that simply slide off.
  7. Lower and remove the stock system carefully. It may be heavy and awkward – use a second person to avoid damage.

Installing the APS Racing Exhaust

  1. Test fit all components on the ground before tightening anything. The APS system uses mandrel-bent tubing and precision flanges; verify that each piece aligns with the vehicle’s existing hangers and routing.
  2. Install from the rear forward – attach the muffler and rear section first, then the mid-pipe, and finally the downpipe or Y-pipe. Use new gaskets included in the kit; do not reuse old ones.
  3. Hand-tighten all bolts at each connection initially. Leave them slightly loose to allow adjustment.
  4. Ensure proper clearance around the driveshaft, heat shields, and suspension components. Rotate the exhaust tips so they are centered in the bumper cutout.
  5. Tighten all fasteners to manufacturer torque specs (typically 30–40 ft-lbs for flange bolts). Avoid over-tightening, which can warp flanges.
  6. Reinstall the oxygen sensors into the new exhaust’s bungs. Apply anti-seize compound to sensor threads.
  7. Double-check every hanger is properly seated in its rubber mount. Start the engine and inspect for leaks – listen for hissing near gasket joints.
  8. Take a brief test drive to confirm no rattles, abnormal vibrations, or contact with the undercarriage. Re-torque bolts after the first heat cycle.

Common challenges: Rusted flange bolts can break – have a bolt extractor set ready. On some vehicles, the rear section may require slight bending of factory hanger tabs. If you are not comfortable cutting or welding, professional installation is recommended.

Sound Characteristics

The sound of the APS Racing Exhaust System is frequently cited as the primary reason for purchase. Unlike many aftermarket exhausts that sacrifice daily comfort for a race-like roar, APS has engineered a balance between an aggressive note and in-cabin refinement.

Tone and Volume

At idle, the exhaust produces a low, mellow rumble that hints at the power underneath. As you accelerate through mid-range RPMs, the tone deepens into a pronounced growl, often compared to a V8 muscle car even on four-cylinder platforms. Under full throttle, the system opens up with a satisfying roar without crossing into obnoxious territory. The exhaust note is free of rasp or tinny overtones common with cheap straight-pipe builds.

Drone and Cruising Comfort

One of the engineering highlights of the APS Racing system is its ability to minimize drone at highway cruising speeds. Users report only a subtle increase in cabin noise between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM – typically well within tolerable levels for daily driving. The inclusion of a high-quality resonator (on most applications) effectively cancels the low-frequency boom that plagues many cat-back systems. If you spend significant time on the highway, this system won’t fatigue you.

Sound Comparison to Stock vs. Competitors

Compared to the OEM exhaust, the APS system is approximately 30–40% louder at full throttle but only about 10% louder at idle. That means you still have a quiet enough car for early morning starts in residential neighborhoods. Against competitors like Borla or MagnaFlow, the APS tone is slightly more aggressive and less polished – it has a raw edge that appeals to enthusiasts who want to announce their presence without being anti-social. For those seeking drone-free highway cruising, the APS system holds its own against premium brands at a lower price point.

For an audio sample, check out this drive-by comparison video from a member of the APS forum community. (Placeholder – link to a legitimate third-party review.)

Performance Gains

Beyond sound, the APS Racing Exhaust System is designed to liberate power by reducing restriction. The mandrel-bent stainless steel pipes maintain a consistent internal diameter that minimizes turbulence and backpressure. Here’s what real-world users and dyno tests show.

Horsepower and Torque

Most vehicles see gains in the range of 8–15% at the wheels, depending on the engine and the rest of the vehicle’s modifications. For example:

  • Naturally aspirated 4-cylinder engines (e.g., Honda Civic Si, Subaru BRZ): +10–15 hp, +8–12 lb-ft torque
  • Turbocharged 4-cylinder engines (e.g., Volkswagen GTI, Subaru WRX): +15–20 hp, +15–20 lb-ft torque (when combined with a tune)
  • V6 and V8 applications (e.g., Chevrolet Camaro, BMW 335i): +20–30 hp, +20–25 lb-ft torque

The torque curve shifts earlier, providing stronger pull from 2,500 RPM onward. On dyno tests, mid-range torque improvements are often larger than peak horsepower gains, making the car feel more responsive in everyday driving.

Weight Reduction

The APS Racing system is constructed from 304 stainless steel with a wall thickness that saves 10–20 pounds compared to a stock exhaust. This weight savings near the rear axle helps improve weight distribution and reduces unsprung mass slightly. Every pound saved contributes to quicker acceleration and improved handling characteristics.

Throttle Response and Backpressure

Reducing backpressure allows the engine to expel exhaust gases more efficiently. The result is a noticeable improvement in throttle response – the engine revs more freely and reaches redline with less resistance. Many drivers report the exhaust “wakes up” the top end of the powerband. However, be aware that on some naturally aspirated engines that rely on backpressure for low-RPM scavenging, you may see a slight dip in torque below 2,000 RPM if the exhaust is too free-flowing. APS engineers have designed their piping diameters and internal chamber layouts to minimize this effect, and real-world tests indicate negligible low-speed losses.

Potential Supporting Mods

To maximize the performance gains, consider combining the APS exhaust with an intake and a custom ECU tune. The exhaust alone provides a solid foundation, but paired with a flash tune, gains can increase by an additional 40% (e.g., a tune could push a turbocharged car from +15 hp to +25 hp). Many owners also upgrade the downpipe to a high-flow or catless version, but check your local emissions laws – removing catalytic converters can cause inspection failures.

Cost Analysis

Understanding the full cost of ownership is crucial before committing to the APS Racing Exhaust System. Beyond the purchase price, installation, and potential tuning add up. Below is a realistic breakdown of what you should budget.

System Pricing

  • Cat-back exhaust: $600–$800 depending on vehicle model and tubing diameter (2.5” vs 3.0”)
  • Axle-back (muffler delete or replaced muffler): $400–$600 – for those only wanting sound change
  • Full turbo-back or header-back system: $1,000–$1,400 – includes downpipe and/or headers, maximizing gains

Prices vary by application and finish (stainless vs. carbon fiber tips). The APS Racing official website and authorized retailers like Summit Racing or Tire Rack often run sales – always compare pricing. Check the official APS Racing website for current model-specific pricing.

Installation Costs

  • DIY: $0 (except for tools you may need to buy – $20–50 worth of penetrating oil, new gaskets, etc.)
  • Professional installation at an independent shop: $100–$200 for a cat-back system; $200–$350 for a full system (turbo-back)
  • Dealership or high-end performance shop: $200–$400 – often better but not necessary

If you lack a lift or have a vehicle with complex routing (e.g., subframe clearance issues), paying for installation is wise. DIY is feasible for most mainstream cars like the Honda Civic, Mazda MX-5, or Ford Mustang, but more difficult on AWD platforms with tight tunnels.

Optional Upgrades and Tuning

  • O2 sensor adapters or extension harnesses: $15–$40 (if your sensors don’t reach the new bungs)
  • New exhaust hangers (polyurethane): $20–$50 (prevent sagging, especially after heat cycling)
  • Gaskets and hardware kit: often included, but aftermarket set $20–$40
  • ECU tune (flash or piggyback): $200–$600 (highly recommended for turbo engines to avoid fuel trims and check engine lights)

Total Estimated Investment

ScenarioLow EstimateHigh Estimate
Cat-back, DIY, no tune$600$800
Cat-back, pro install, no tune$700$1,100
Full turbo-back, pro install, with tune$1,350$2,100
Axle-back, DIY, no additional parts$400$600

At the upper end, the investment approaches other premium brands, but APS often delivers comparable or better sound and build quality for the money. Keep in mind that a high-quality performance exhaust can also increase your vehicle’s resale value if you retain the stock parts for reinstallation.

Long-Term Value and Durability

The APS Racing system uses TIG-welded 304 stainless steel, which resists corrosion far better than mild steel or aluminized steel. With proper care, the exhaust will outlast the vehicle. The sound characteristics do not degrade over time, and performance gains remain consistent. There are no moving parts or electronics to fail. Many owners report the system paying for itself in driving enjoyment over years of ownership. Additionally, the weight savings and improved efficiency can marginally improve fuel economy if you keep a light foot – though most drivers find the extra power hard to resist.

Is the APS Racing Exhaust System Worth It?

The APS Racing Exhaust System strikes an impressive balance between aggressive sound, measurable performance gains, and a price point that remains accessible to budget-conscious enthusiasts. The installation can be tackled by a DIYer with basic tools, and the result is a more engaging driving experience without overwhelming drone or rasp. The system is particularly well-suited for owners who want a genuine performance upgrade rather than just a louder muffler. When paired with a tune and intake, the gains become even more pronounced.

However, if your priority is absolute minimal cabin noise or you have strict noise regulations in your area, you might want to consider a system with a more passive resonator or a valved exhaust. Also, always confirm that the tune is compatible with your region’s emissions standards – some states require visual inspections of catalytic converters and oxygen sensors. For most enthusiasts, though, the APS Racing system offers one of the best sound-to-cost ratios on the market. Read more verified buyer reviews on AutoAnything to see how other owners rate their experience.

Ultimately, the decision comes down to your priorities: do you want a sharper soundtrack and better throttle response without breaking the bank? If yes, the APS Racing Exhaust System is a compelling choice that has proven itself on both street and track.