Why Upgrade to a ClutchMasters FX400?

Upgrading your vehicle's clutch is one of the most effective ways to handle increased horsepower and torque, especially if you've modified your engine, added forced induction, or regularly push your car on the track. The ClutchMasters FX400 is a popular choice among enthusiasts because it offers a balance of high clamping force, durability, and reasonable daily-driver manners. This step-by-step guide expands on the basics to help you install the FX400 correctly the first time, whether you're a seasoned mechanic or an ambitious DIYer. We'll cover essential preparation, detailed installation steps, torque specifications, and post-installation break-in procedures to ensure long-lasting performance.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having everything on hand before you start saves time and prevents frustration. Gather these tools and supplies:

  • ClutchMasters FX400 clutch kit (includes pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool)
  • Socket set (metric and standard, with extensions)
  • Torque wrench (capable of both ft-lb and in-lb ranges)
  • Breaker bar (for stubborn bolts)
  • Floor jack and four jack stands
  • Transmission jack or a helper (transmissions are heavy and awkward)
  • Fresh transmission fluid (check your vehicle's spec – often GL-4 or GL-5)
  • Brake cleaner or clutch-safe degreaser
  • Shop towels and rags
  • Safety glasses and mechanic's gloves
  • Penetrating oil (for rusted fasteners)
  • Inch-pound torque wrench for small fasteners
  • Flywheel resurfacing or replacement (optional but recommended)
  • Clutch alignment tool (usually included; verify it fits your application)
  • Threadlocker (medium strength, blue type)
  • Digital camera or phone to record steps (helps during reassembly)

Note: Some vehicles require specialized tools like a flywheel lock or a transmission tail support. Check a forum or service manual specific to your make and model before starting.

Preparation: Safety and Workspace

Park the vehicle on a flat, level concrete surface. Disconnect the battery negative terminal to prevent any electrical shorts or accidental starter engagement. Let the engine cool completely if you've been driving. Clean the underside of the car to remove oil, grease, and debris; a pressure washer works well. This prevents contamination during the job. Ensure you have adequate lighting and enough room to slide the transmission out from under the car. Read through the entire guide and your vehicle's service manual before lifting a single bolt.

Understanding the ClutchMasters FX400 Components

The FX400 is a sprung-hub, organic/ceramic composite disc paired with a heavy-duty pressure plate. It's designed for vehicles producing up to 400–500 wheel horsepower (depending on application). The kit typically includes:

  • Pressure plate: Increases clamping force over stock, often by 30–50%.
  • Clutch disc: Uses a blend of organic and ceramic friction materials for higher torque capacity while retaining some streetability.
  • Release bearing (throwout bearing): Usually included; always replace it when doing a clutch job.
  • Pilot bearing or bushing: Replaces the old one to support the transmission input shaft.
  • Alignment tool: Matches the spline count and pilot diameter for your transmission.

Familiarize yourself with these parts before installation to ensure you don't miss any steps.

Step 1: Lift and Support the Vehicle

Carefully lift the front of the vehicle using a floor jack at the factory jacking points. Place heavy-duty jack stands under the frame rails or subframe. Never rely on a jack alone. Rock the vehicle gently to ensure it's stable. If you're also removing the driveshaft or half-shafts, you may need to lift all four corners. For most front-wheel-drive cars, only the front needs elevation; rear-wheel-drive cars often require lifting the rear or using ramps.

Step 2: Remove the Transmission

Disconnect the battery first. Then remove any components blocking transmission removal. Common items include:

  • Starter motor (disconnect wiring and unbolt it)
  • Exhaust system (downpipe or mid-pipe may need to be dropped or unbolted)
  • Driveshaft or axles (for RWD or FWD respectively; mark orientation)
  • Transmission crossmember and mount
  • Shifter linkage/cables (remove shift knob and console inside the car if needed)
  • Speed sensor, reverse light switch, and other electrical connectors
  • Hydraulic clutch line (if equipped with a slave cylinder; be careful not to kink or damage it)

Drain the transmission fluid (if applicable) to avoid spills. Support the transmission with a transmission jack or a floor jack with a piece of wood. Remove the bellhousing bolts (often 12–18 bolts in various lengths; note their positions). Carefully slide the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the flywheel. Lower it slowly and move it out from under the car. If it sticks, double-check that all bolts are removed and that any hidden brackets are detached.

Pro Tip:

Take photos of every step, especially wiring harness routings and bolt placements. This makes reassembly much smoother.

Step 3: Remove the Old Clutch Assembly

With the transmission out, you have clear access to the clutch. Unbolt the pressure plate in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping (use a socket and breaker bar). Remove the pressure plate and old clutch disc. Inspect the flywheel surface: it should be smooth and free of cracks, deep grooves, or discoloration. If it shows wear or glazing, either resurface it or replace it. Never install a new clutch on a worn or damaged flywheel. Use brake cleaner to degrease the flywheel surface thoroughly. Also clean the back of the crankshaft flange where the flywheel mounts.

Remove the old pilot bearing or bushing from the crankshaft. Use a blind hole puller or a pilot bearing removal tool. If it's stubborn, you can pack grease behind it and drive it out with a rod and hammer. Install the new pilot bearing (or bushing) using a driver that contacts only the outer race. Apply a thin coat of high-temp grease to the inner surface of the new pilot bearing.

Step 4: Install the ClutchMasters FX400

Begin by placing the new clutch disc against the flywheel. Use the alignment tool to center it. Insert the tool through the disc and into the pilot bearing. The disc should be oriented correctly: most discs have a "flywheel side" or "transmission side" marking; if not, the raised portion of the hub typically faces the transmission. Slide the pressure plate over the disc, aligning the bolt holes. Hand-thread the pressure plate bolts. Do not use power tools – you need to feel the threads to avoid cross-threading.

Once all bolts are started, tighten them in a star/crisscross pattern to the manufacturer's specified torque. For the ClutchMasters FX400, typical torque values range from 35 to 50 ft-lb depending on the application, but always refer to the included instructions or the official ClutchMasters website. Use a quality torque wrench and apply threadlocker to the bolt threads if specified. After torquing, remove the alignment tool and verify the disc is centered – it should have very slight movement but remain in the center.

Step 5: Inspect and Install the Release Bearing and Pilot Bearing

Compare the new release bearing (throwout bearing) with the old one. They should match in height and diameter. Grease the transmission input shaft splines lightly (too much grease can contaminate the clutch disc). Install the release bearing on the clutch fork or slave cylinder (depending on your car's design). If your vehicle uses an external slave cylinder, ensure it's bled and functioning before full assembly. Replace the pilot bearing as described in Step 3.

Step 6: Reinstall the Transmission

With the clutch installed, reinstall the transmission in reverse order. This step is the most physically demanding. Clean the input shaft splines and apply a very thin layer of high-temp grease. Lift the transmission into position and slide it forward slowly. Rotate the output shaft slightly to align the splines. Do not force it; if it binds, adjust the angle of the transmission or check that the clutch disc is still aligned. Once the bellhousing contacts the engine block, gently push the transmission home. Install the bellhousing bolts and torque them in sequence (typically from center outward) to factory specs.

Reattach the starter, exhaust, driveshaft/axles, crossmember, shifter linkage, electrical connectors, and hydraulic line. Replace the transmission fluid with the correct type and quantity. Reconnect the battery.

Step 7: Bleed the Clutch Hydraulics (if applicable)

If your vehicle has a hydraulic clutch, you must bleed the system to remove air that entered when you disconnected the line. Use a helper or a pressure bleeder. Follow the recommended procedure for your car – typically pumping the pedal and opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder. The pedal should feel firm with no sponginess. Check for leaks at all connections.

Step 8: Test Drive and Break-In

Start the engine and let it idle. Depress the clutch pedal a few times to ensure smooth operation. Listen for any unusual noises like squealing or grinding. If everything sounds normal, take the car for a short test drive in an empty parking lot. Test engagement from a stop, smooth upshifts, and downshifts. The FX400 will likely have a slightly heavier pedal feel and may chatter a bit at low RPM – this is normal.

Break-in procedure is critical: For the first 500 city miles (or as specified by ClutchMasters), avoid aggressive launches, hard acceleration, and towing. Engage the clutch smoothly and avoid slipping it unnecessarily. This allows the friction material to mate with the flywheel and pressure plate. After break-in, you can enjoy the full performance. For more details on break-in, refer to the official ClutchMasters support page.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Incorrect alignment: Double-check clutch disc centering before torquing. Use the included tool.
  • Over-torquing pressure plate bolts: This can warp the pressure plate or strip threads. Use a torque wrench.
  • Not replacing the pilot bearing: A worn bearing can cause noise and premature failure.
  • Forgetting to grease the input shaft splines: This can cause the disc to stick on the shaft, leading to poor engagement.
  • Skipping the break-in period: This can glaze the clutch disc and shorten its life.
  • Using the wrong transmission fluid: Some fluids are incompatible with yellow metals in synchros. Check your owner's manual or a trusted forum like Bob is the Oil Guy for recommendations.

Final Thoughts

Installing a ClutchMasters FX400 clutch is a rewarding upgrade that transforms how your car handles increased power. Taking your time, using the correct tools, and following torque specs precisely will ensure years of reliable service. Remember that patience during the break-in period pays off with improved grip and durability. If you encounter any issues beyond basic troubleshooting, consult a professional mechanic or reach out to ClutchMasters directly. With careful installation, your vehicle will be ready to handle whatever power you throw at it.